About twelve years ago, I visited Jaisalmer for the first time. My most memorable moment was admiring the shimmering landscape at dusk.

I was eager to re-live that moment when I travelled with Suryagarh Jaisalmer recently. Not only did the moment come back to me, but it also wove in new memories.

A village called Khaba

Under late morning sun, we drove 22 kilometres away from Suryagarh, via Dedha, towards Khaba. Dating back to 13th century, the Khaba Fort was a part of Kuldhara village. The village was inhabited by the Paliwals. They fled away owing to mysterious legends and superstitions that continue to make Khaba an eerie ghost town. I saw the ruins of the village lying at the feet of the citadel. This was where I was introduced to the fascinating chhatris or structured canopies. These chhatris were made by interlocking sandstone, one above the other, using the cantilever technique. These continued to dot my way around Jaisalmer.

Suryagarh Jaisalmer © Amrita Das
The sati tombs of Khaba.
The king and his eight wives at the Royal Cenotaphs of Bada Bagh.

A drive to the other side of the road disclosed vertical slabs of sandstone jutting out. As I walked closer on coarse terrain, these had small figurines on them. Nakul Hada, the general manager of Suryagarh, said that these are the sati tombs. The figures on these relics depict the women who passed on along with their husband.

Read: Suryagarh – Jaisalmer’s Golden Enchantment 

The Royal Cenotaphs of Bada Bagh

Contrasting the neighbouring green, royal mango garden (Bada Bagh) are the magnificent beige chhatris which are cenotaphs of kings. These chhatris commemorate the passing on of the royal lineage in the region.

The sun was strong and time limited. Yet a couple of us walked up, photographing the chhatris. The designs had changed over time. At a hilltop the oldest ones bore the cantilever architecture. The newer ones were a blend of Mughal architectural elements.

Suryagarh Jaisalmer © Amrita Das
A view of the Royal Cenotaphs from the base.
Suryagarh Jaisalmer © Amrita Das
The recent chhatris seen to blend in Rajasthani and Islamic architectural elements.
Suryagarh Jaisalmer © Amrita Das
One of the bigger tombs, with a glaze in the stone.

The magic of Brahmsar

Words fall short to describe my moment at Brahmsar. I entered this temple complex and immersed myself in its magical vibe. There was something about this place.

Through a covered hallway, dilapidated chhatris, locked temple, faceless figures on pillars and a peaceful oasis, I walked around exploring it. I wanted to get better acquainted with Brahmsar and wish I met someone who could answer my questions about this mystical place.

Suryagarh Jaisalmer © Amrita Das
Possible figures of deity in Brahmsar
Suryagarh Jaisalmer © Amrita Das
Walking towards the oasis at Brahmsar.

Read: Photo Story: The Golden Touch of Suryagarh, Jaisalmer

As I made my way back from Jaisalmer, I recalled these moments. My travel with Suryagarh had seamlessly added thrice as much to my memories of Jaisalmer.

Good to know
-Suryagarh have multiple offers and special discounts through the year. Keep up with their website or their Facebook page.

What are your Rajasthan moments made of?

Note: I was invited by Suryagarh Jaisalmer.

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Amrita Das

I have been a travel and culture independent journalist. My bylines have appeared in many publications worldwide including National Geographic Traveller India, Lonely Planet Magazine India, The Indian Express and World Travel Magazine. A fellow of Media Ambassadors India-Germany 2019 program by Robert Bosch Stiftung and Centre for Media Competence, University of Tübingen. Currently, I am the photo editor for RoundGlass Sustain, a wildlife and conservation e-publication. I live in India.

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