Adjacent to the chaotic and noisy Bajirao Road in Pune, lies the even more chaotic and loud market of Tulshibaug. I visited this old neighbourhood on a hot day after fighting the powerful influence of procrastination. And I am very glad I did.

No sooner I got off the auto-rickshaw, than I saw the famous Vishrambaug Wada which is opposite to the market’s entrance. Believed to be the home of Peshwa Bajirao II, this structure wore a pastel pink colour while the wooden balcony stood out, depicting heavy inspiration from the Maratha era.

I rushed inside the market and was overwhelmed by the crowd, and the friendly yet not over-familiar shopkeepers. Tulshibaug is a shopper’s paradise, where you are likely to find everything from street smart fashion, beauty products and accessories, traditional Maharashtrian jewellery, trendy footwear, kitchen utensils and crockery items and adornments for idols. The area is vast and be prepared to spend a lot of time here. Unfortunately, I was limited on time and had to leave only an hour after my arrival.

Ram Mandir is an ancient temple, quietly nestled in the bustling neighbourhood of Tulshibaug. Estimated to be more than 250 years old, the temple is unbelievably quiet and clean. I loved the carving on the spire and the friendly pandit. It feels like an oasis in the desert!

Vishrambaug Wada.
Vishrambaug Wada.
The crowd appeared to be sparse as I entered.
The crowd appeared to be sparse as I entered.
Did you know that there were so many variety of hair clips?
Did you know that there were so many varieties of hair clips?
Creative ear cuffs for the ladies.
Creative ear cuffs for the ladies.
The Ganesh Temple in the bazaar.
The Ganesh Temple in the bazaar.
I noticed a lot of shopkeepers grow a fingernail here. Wonder why!
I noticed a lot of shopkeepers grow a fingernail here. Wonder why!
Traditional Maharashtrian nose-pins, available in different sizes.
Traditional Maharashtrian nose-pins, available in different sizes.
Adornments.
Adornments.
Ram Mandir's old wooden decor.
Ram Mandir’s old wooden decor.
Murals around the temple.
Mural around the temple.
The cheerful pandit with idols of Ram, Laxman and Sita behind him.
The cheerful pandit with idols of Ram, Laxman and Sita behind him.
On a weekday.
On a weekday.
The temple's spire with lovely carvings.
The temple’s spire with lovely carvings.
The worn out structure around the temple.
The worn out structure around the temple.
As I exited on Sanipar Mandai Road.
As I exited on Sanipar Mandai Road.

Keep in mind: The bustling market is busy and full of pickpockets. Keep your belongings safe. Ideally you should keep 2 hours minimum to explore the area though I can spend half of the day here!

Getting there: Everyone knows this popular market place. It can be accessed either through Bajirao Road or Shivaji Road. I entered through Bajirao Road and exited on Sanipar Mandai Road.

Hours: 11AM to 9PM

Have you been to Tulshibaug in Pune?

Amrita Das

I have been a travel and culture independent journalist. My bylines have appeared in many publications worldwide including National Geographic Traveller India, Lonely Planet Magazine India, The Indian Express and World Travel Magazine. A fellow of Media Ambassadors India-Germany 2019 program by Robert Bosch Stiftung and Centre for Media Competence, University of Tübingen. Currently, I am the photo editor for RoundGlass Sustain, a wildlife and conservation e-publication. I live in India.

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7 thoughts on “Photo story: Tulshibaug, Pune”

  1. Those murals around the temple are beauiful, Amrita. I have never been around Pune, and your post is yet another reminder that it is high time I make a visit. btw, next time you are in mumbai, we should go to bhuleshwar. the market reminds me of my last visit there :)

    1. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Anu. We should go to Bhuleshwar and Pune. There is so much to see everywhere! :)

    1. It is a lovely place to shop. Do keep me posted on your experience :)

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